Friday, December 3, 2010






Buhoma: There are plenty of guesthouses around for all the budgets, but don't expect any very good deals, as to me they all seem overpriced.
There are a few day hikes that you can do in the forest, without going to see the gorillas, and one of the nicest one is a trip to the waterfalls.
Anyhow, the small village is full of handicraft shops and there are a few cheap restaurants that cater to guides and locals, so if you watch your wallet, just ask around or watch where the guides go to eat, as those places don't have a name/sign :)
There is a nice cafe shop that sells some simple pastries as well with some of the proceedings that go to the local pygmies tribe. They can organize some tours around the area, including a visit to a pygmies village. 
I've chosen NOT to visit any of those places in Uganda for personal reasons, but some people might like the feeling of a "human zoo". 

I walked to Buhoma from Nkuringo, but getting out of here proved to be quite an experience :)
My plan was to go through Queen Elizabeth Park(all the way to Kasese), without paying the park fee and maybe to see some animals.
On the map you can see a road that goes almost diagonal through most of the park, so it made sense to try it!

First step was to get to Kihihi, which can be done by hiring a private car, or by boda-boda. I c housed the later, as the car was too expensive, and I must say that it was one of the most memorable experiences in Uganda.
I had almost a 10 min discussion on the previous night with the boda-boda driver about how he should drive, so in the morning I had no trouble getting on the road very early(6am). The road he took, on portions, was not suitable for cars so this made the whole trip even more interesting:)
I won't get in to more details, but after 2 hours were safe and sound in Kihihi, where a shared taxi was waiting(you must get there quite early as there are NOT many cars during the day!!!) for passengers to go to Kasese.
For those that have used shared taxis for long distance, this is not news, but they cram about 10 people in a car that can take only 5: don't ask HOW, but somehow they do it!
I had to pay double(around 20000) so I can have the front seat for myself.

Passing through QEP on this road proved to be worth it, as I saw a lion crossing the road, quite a few elephants and some impala. The road is quite bad and dusty, so expect to be totally covered in dust at the end of the 2h drive!

Rwenzori mountains: I went from Kasese, without stopping at all in the city, to Nyakalengija, at the foot of the mountains. You first must go to Ibanda, using the usual matatus.
I stayed at one of the nicest places in my trip: Ruboni Community Campsite, in a very nice banda for 25000(they have cheaper options, but the bandas are quite nice!!).
The guesthouse benefits the local community and they can organize guides for some short walks around the area, without entering into the park. The views from the restaurant(a bit overpriced and not that good, so bring some food with you!) area or even higher, from the tent area, are quite stunning!
The park entrance is quite $steep$, and it was not in my budget, so I've skipped this time, but the day-hike I did on top of the local hills was well worth it and cheap: 15000. Try to convince the guide(for some extra $ , of course) to take you back along the park border, combining your hike with another walk they have on the normal "menu". It might a long day, but it is worth it, as you can see the very nice chameleons they have there!

Crater lakes: I've planned to stay in Fort Portal area for a few days, and the Crater Lakes fit the bill for some relaxing time.
I've stayed at Lake Nkuruba Nature Reserve Community Campsite and I have to reckon that I had only good time there:)
You could rent mountain bikes to explore all the lakes around(allow around 8h for this, if you plan to go all the way to lake Kasenda) or you can get a guide for some local hikes. The food is quite good but you have to order a few hours before. The lake itself is very nice and bilharzia-free(at the time of my visit) and the monkeys that are all around make the place feel quite surreal!

The bike ride around the other lakes is highly recommend it, as you get to see some simple villages along the way, that are not spoiled by tourists, and at the end of it(Lake Kasenda-Ruigo Beach) it is quite a nice place to recharge your batteries! You don't need a guide for this, just follow the road and ask the locals if you get lost:)

My original plan to go to Murchison falls didn't work, as the only budget place in the park (Redhotchilli Campsite) was full for the next 2 weeks or so. From Fort Portal I went directly to Jinja, without staying in town at all, as I am not fan of developed towns...

Jinja: I stayed there for 1 day and I can say that the place crawled with muzungus. The town itself is nothing to talk about it, although there is very good coffee,pastries and indian food!

Hairy Lemon: reading the LP review of the place I though to give it a try, as it is quite a short matatu ride from Jinja.
The place is very well run, with a lot of options for sleeping, but be warned that is overrun by white-water kayakers! 
This place seems to be on everyone's best top 5 places to kayak in the world! I've met people that spent 1 month in this place, doing only kayaking and nothing else; seeing nothing else in Uganda but this place and Bujangali Falls. 

Bujangali Falls: I've relaxed here for 4 days, recovering from a small injury, and the place has a good vibe but it is probably the most touristy place in Uganda.
There is enough stuff going around to keep you busy for a few days, and anyway, Jinja is 15 min. drive away.
The whiter-rafting on the Nile proved to be amazing(although highly overpriced for Uganda), specially that I've done it in a double kayak! 

Eden Rock Resort has tons of options for sleep, and it seems to be quieter than Explorers Campsite, although it doesn't have the nice views...
You can grab good food(very cheap pancake stuff outside the park gates) at quite a few places around but one special mention needs to made about Nile Porch's restaurant: they have very good wine by the glass!

Sipi Falls: My last place in Uganda, before crossing the border in Kenya, proved to be quite spectacular!
A matatu or shared taxi can take you quite fast from Mbale to Sipi, just mention to the driver which lodge you want.
There are plenty of nice places to stay in Sipi, and I've chosen one that usually was not on my budget range before: Lacam Lodge. Their 3 bed dorm was 50000, including full board, and they had probably the best food from my whole trip!
At the time of my arrival and during my stay I had the whole dorm for myself, but in the high season this is not the case and prices might rise! 
The whole lodge area is quite nicely landscaped and they have an amazing view of the main waterfall. Being away from the main road and not catering to rowdy teenagers gives you an incredible night-sleep!
You can do a couple of trips around the area, with one of the most popular being the 3-water hike. Just ask at any lodge about a guide and haggle hard about the price, as they tend to overcharge you! 

This was my last place I've visited in Uganda and I must say that I've ended the trip on quite high note: Sipi Falls and Lacam Lodge rule! 

From Sipi Falls, back to Mbale and then onto Malaba is quite simple to find transport. The border crossing is very simple and should be uneventful. 

Safe travels everyone!

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